{"id":138,"date":"2015-01-01T21:25:06","date_gmt":"2015-01-01T21:25:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/?page_id=138"},"modified":"2018-07-01T03:26:37","modified_gmt":"2018-07-01T03:26:37","slug":"about-us","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/?page_id=138","title":{"rendered":"About Us"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>A lot of people make custom joysticks these days so you will find all manner of designs, quality, and price.<\/p>\n<p>Arcade parts can be cheap or very expensive. You can get a joystick for around $10 or you can pay close to $80 and every where in between. You have the same thing with pushbuttons. You can buy cheap ones for $2 or some nice leaf-switch ones for around $12. You can spend a lot or very little on the case you put the joystick in. You can use plastic, wood, metal, or some old Radica plug in play system that has been gutted.<\/p>\n<p>I decided to use the best parts I could find which means they aren&#8217;t very cheap. I decided on the Sanwa JLF after trying out the majority of the joysticks you can buy new, and even then I had to modify the JLF to get it just right. The joystick is smooth, precise, and quiet. We also use real leaf-switch buttons. These buttons are expensive since they are mostly old arcade stock, but they really can&#8217;t be beat. We also use a heavy duty new aluminum case with black power coating. You can hit it with a hammer, stand on it, etc. I don&#8217;t know if you can drive your car over it but you get the idea. The 7800 ProSystem Joystick has over $100 in parts alone. I encourage you to look up the prices of the parts online (plus shipping) if you are interested in what all goes into making your own joysticks.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/Sanwa-Joystick.jpg\" alt=\"Sanwa Joystick\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/leaf-switch-buttons.jpg\" alt=\"Leaf-Switch Buttons\" \/><\/p>\n<p>There is also a difference when it comes to how things are assembled. These are built by hand. The cases are drilled on a drill press. The wiring harness uses 22 gauge wire soldered to the 9 pin adapter and has crimp connectors on all the switches. The joystick bolts are counter sunk so you have a smooth surface. The overlays also have to be trimmed with an x-acto knife. Several hours of labor go into each one. So the price reflects all of that.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/Soldering-Station.jpg\" alt=\"Soldering Station\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/Drill-Press.jpg\" alt=\"Drill Press\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The price means these joysticks may not be for everybody. There is nothing wrong with making your own joystick or using cheaper parts. A $10 joystick mounted in a cigar box is probably still better than some of the stock controllers from back in the day, but if you want the best then this is the one you want.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/ProSystem_Joystick_Angle_1920_1080.jpg\" alt=\"Atari 7800 ProSystem Arcade Joystick\" \/><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A lot of people make custom joysticks these days so you will find all manner of designs, quality, and price. Arcade parts can be cheap or very expensive. You can get a joystick for around $10 or you can pay close to $80 and every where in between. You have the same thing with pushbuttons. You can buy cheap ones for $2 or some nice leaf-switch ones for around $12. You can spend a lot or very little on the case you put the joystick in. You can use plastic, wood, metal, or some old Radica plug in play system that has been gutted. I decided to use the best parts I could find which means they aren&#8217;t very cheap. I decided on the Sanwa JLF after trying out the majority of the joysticks you can buy new, and even then I had to modify the JLF to get it just right. The joystick is smooth, precise, and quiet. We also use real leaf-switch buttons. These buttons are expensive since they are mostly old arcade stock, but they really can&#8217;t be beat. We also use a heavy duty new aluminum case with black power coating. You can hit it with<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":176,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/138"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=138"}],"version-history":[{"count":18,"href":"https:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/138\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":249,"href":"https:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/138\/revisions\/249"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/176"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ClassicJoysticks.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=138"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}